Monday, December 4, 2023

Thanksgiving and time to celebrate Dave Sack's 80th

At Dave Sack's 80th birthday party
I have not spent a lot of time in Addis Ababa in the past two months. In October, we traveled to South Sudan and Djibouti. In November I had a work trip to Southern Ethiopia, had one week back home, and then got on a plane again. This time, I was heading back to the US. My dad turned 80 this year, and I really wanted to be there to help him celebrate.  Also, it seemed like the right time to check in on Oren and see what to do to help him with his transition into college life. And along the way, I had a chance to catch up with several dear friends.

My flight plan included a 7-hour layover in Frankfurt so I decided to get out of the airport and explore a bit. My flight arrived very early, so I took a little time to figure out the train system and let the freezing temperatures warm up a little. 

Wandering in Frankfurt

By dawn, I had made my way to the center of the city, still deserted except for a few folks who seemed to live on the street. Once upon a time, I had spoken German reasonably well. I was a bit disconcerted that I couldn’t put a sentence together very well – all that wanted to come out was Amharic! This became evident when a young man approached me and asked in German how to find the main train station? I didn’t know, nor could I tell him that! Then he asked me in Russian, and then in French – all of which I could understand, but couldn’t respond to. Finally, we landed in English and he understood that language wasn’t the problem as much as my general ignorance of Frankfurt. Hopefully, he found his way.

I enjoyed wandering through the quiet foggy streets and eventually found the river with a lovely promenade on either side. I had no real goal, except to do a lot of walking and possibly pick up some German treats to share with the Baltimore family. On both counts I succeeded, finding a wonderful produce market, and then several cheese shops and sausage shops. I stumbled across a Catholic cathedral that was drawing the first round of morning tourists towing carry-on suitcases. Inside I learned that it was the only original building left standing in that block after WWII after the massive bombing of the Altstat. An eerie photograph in the church foyer showed an aerial view of blocks of rubble with the standing church in the center. All the other apparently old buildings I walked beside were reconstructed. 

Reunion week with Oren
Eventually, I found a recommended breakfast spot – inside they were full, but they had outdoor tables as well. It was probably about 4 degrees Celsius by that time, and they had an overhead heater and lap blankets, so I managed fairly well. And then I made my way back to the airport in time for my connection to Washington DC.

My parents kindly met me at the airport and drove me back to our family home. Oren had already arrived on the train that afternoon and had enjoyed dinner and games with his other grandparents before coming out to Fallston. It wasn’t long before I crashed. In the morning, Oren and I went to church at North Baltimore Mennonite – a real treat to participate in the hymns in 4-part harmony and see so many old friends. It was a potluck day and so we had even more time to catch up with people. In the afternoon, my dad and I joined Bunny & Henry Mosley at a concert of the Deer Creek Chorale, the choral society my parents have been members of for a long time. I really enjoyed hearing other people sing beautiful music, and it was an interesting choice to have a program focused on gratitude – rather than the expected Christmas selections. 

Dinner with all the parents and friends

I think the choir really tries to be ecumenical and has a wide community outreach, along with making music. I even saw other good friends at the concert – all the Ballards -- and we had time to talk during intermission. We came back to my parents’ house for a soup dinner and good conversation. So much in just my first 24 hours back in the country!

On Monday morning, my mom needed help with setting up an apartment for a CAR refugee. So, I joined both my parents and my cousins Jonathan and Dan, loading and moving furniture and getting everything organized in the new place. Since my mom retired from librarian work, she has given a lot of energy towards welcoming “Home” many, many families of refugees, starting with Afghans who had to flee in 2021. 

Setting up a refugee home
I was glad I could support her in this. And it turned out to be a very fun thing to do with my cousins whom I don’t normally see all that often. In this case, they were helping because they were in the process of emptying their mom’s house after Jo died this summer. It’s great to know that more vulnerable people can benefit from the things she left behind.

On both Monday and Tuesday afternoons, I took Oren to behind-the-wheel sessions of driver’s ed. He had not been able to complete that stage in 2022, and then in 2023, he had his ankle surgery and couldn’t drive at all. Now he’s trying to pick back up and get himself ready to finally take a driving test sometime in 2024. He still doesn’t have a car, so it’s not a big problem yet. But at some point, he will need to be able to get himself to a summer job, so hopefully, all this can come together. While Oren was practicing driving, I was able to get almost all of my shopping done – for Thanksgiving, my dad’s party, and then things to take back to Addis.

A game of Rummikub with the grandparents
Oren and I enjoyed a very nice brunch on Wednesday morning with Bunny and Henry at their retirement center. It was nice to have that quiet time with just them. Then we went off in quest of a winter coat for Oren. Our first stop was the Mosley family storage unit where we had stored winter things long ago; Paul thought he had a winter coat there. Henry took us and we looked through two bins, but no coat! On the other hand, there was lots of little kid winter gear that we could donate, so it was good to deal with one little bit of the clutter we left behind. Next Oren and I went to the nearby mall and found him quite a good waterproof winter parka. Along the way, my second-hand shoes literally fell apart –the sole just broke off. So I had to also get new shoes to even be able to walk out of the mall. We got ourselves a nice simple lunch at Ikea, along with some soft toys as Christmas gifts for staff children. And then we had to drive across town to see Oren’s pediatrician for a checkup. It took us a while, and I’m glad we went. Finally, we headed back to Fallston, had dinner, packed up, and then drove ourselves out to Charter Hall to settle in for the night before Thanksgiving.

I really love being at Charter Hall, with a crowd or just a quiet quartet of people. It didn’t take us too long to unpack everything so we still had time for a game of Rummikub. It was delightful to wake up early in the lodge and watch the sunrise on the heron out by the front dock, successfully fishing for minnows. There was even time for a jog down the farm lane before we needed to start our cooking. Cooking itself was fun, and Charter Hall is a fantastic place to host a big Thanksgiving dinner: two big ovens, 10 burners on the stove, lots of buffet space, and long tables already set up. We had 19 people in total, including my brothers’ family including Miriam’s boyfriend, their next-door neighbors/best friends the Thompsons, Henry & Bunny, and another church family with two little kids. 


It warmed my heart to see what fun it was for Oren to hang out and play games with other young adults whom he’s known for years as his youth group cohort from church. Everyone brought delicious contributions to our Thanksgiving meal and it was incredibly tasty to me. I am developing a theory that food is more delicious at sea-level than at 8000 feet, and I think, I have some scientific justification for that, but also, everyone put in effort to make things very nicely. The weather was clear, beautiful and cold and we even had a chance to go outside and throw a frisbee around for a while, something that reminded me of the Thanksgivings of my youth, when we always included sports – touch football – before the big meal.

Relaxing in the lodge at Thanksgiving
Friday was a quiet day for my parents, Oren and I, back at the lodge. Oren had a big assignment due for his Chinese history/freshman writing class right after the holiday. So I joined him in listening to the audible version of “the Rape of Nanking: forgotten holocaust.” It was horrible and shocking to learn about that period of history, and equally shocking that I really knew almost nothing about the brutality of the Japanese occupation of China in 1937. In between, we all did a little to help with the project of stacking firewood with the other Charter Hall owners. I had a brief and serendipitous phone call with a good friend from Poughkeepsie days, Courtenay Budd. And there were other nice moments of rest and game-playing. Oh, and also lots and lots of cooking to prepare for my dad’s birthday party on Saturday! But easy to cook and listen to the book with Oren and keep him company as he learned. We also had a few good walks that day and some evening driving practice.

Sack cousins and spouses
My brother Paul and I planned an open-house party for my dad’s birthday on Saturday so we needed to have food for both lunch and supper. I’m glad we did! People dropped in and out from about noon onwards, and actually, that worked out quite well to have time to share with them in smaller groups. My cousins came out for lunch and had a few hours with us then. Other people came mid-afternoon to join us for the most amazing cake celebration, provided by my dad’s friend and colleague Jean Humphrey. It was quite cold, but incredibly beautiful, so a few of us followed my dad’s lead in enjoying our cake outside to watch the sunset. My dad insisted that he was cold but he didn’t care. 


Cake and candles

Then I led us in a version of the game “Hot Seat” featuring Dave Sack – it gave us some good moments of humor and reflection before we enjoyed a home-cooked curry dinner. And a second slice of cake
😉

It was incredibly special that our old family friends Elaine and Mike Crauderauff could come down and join us, staying overnight. We’ve known Elaine since I was a child in Bangladesh, and they have often stayed with us at Charter Hall over the years. Mike has been battling cancer this year and it was such a gift that he was well enough to travel, and full of brightness for good conversation. We also enjoyed hearing about Elaine’s latest writing projects. 


In the morning we had a surprise visit from 7 turkeys, all gathered around in the garden behind the kitchen. They had come out from hiding, I suppose, gambling that we had enough turkey leftovers in the fridge to leave them alone. They were right! We followed that old Charter Hall axiom that you always leave with more food than you brought… Oren and I helped my parents clean up and pack the cars before we got on the road down to Williamsburg again.


Sushi dinner
It was a rainy drive, on Thanksgiving Sunday, so I took the backroads. And the whole trip was timed perfectly to finish off listening to Oren’s history book. We checked into our hotel and Oren did a little writing on his paper and then we went off in search of a sushi dinner. I really enjoyed spending that time with my son, traveling, enjoying good food and having thoughtful conversations. In the morning, I took Oren to class and then wandered around, trying to think how to help him with a major obstacle he’s faced – how to find a work-study position on campus. It also gave me a chance to wander into the library and some academic buildings and see what has changed. I found myself at the Chemistry department office and asked if they ever hire students. “Oh yes, go see the lady next door; applications are right there with her.” And so I quickly found out that they were hiring teaching assistants (not freshmen) and also lab assistants (possibly freshmen, to set up and clean up from labs). Oren filled out an application right away, ditched me in the lobby and went to see the lady in question. He came back a half hour later, having had a good conversation with her and a full tour of the labs. There’s no guarantee that he will get an offer, but it was a great start for him. Most other jobs are advertised through the career center and he met with them Friday in his own appointment.


We had a delicious pizza lunch and then I took Oren to get his hair trimmed, and finally, we landed back at the hotel for Oren to work on his assignments. Three were due by midnight! It was warm and sunny and I wanted some fresh air, so I went out for a walk around Colonial Williamsburg. On my way back, I realized that I might not ever be able to be here with Oren in the winter when school was in session. I rushed back to the hotel, got him into the car and we took a nice walk as the sun was setting. I think that sometimes he struggles to feel positive about college when there is so much work to do. Many of his acquaintances are quite cynical, which I think is typical of his disappointed generation. The campus itself is quite chaotic and noisy with so much construction going on, and not nearly as beautiful as it should be. So I really wanted to take him for a walk to show him what is still beautiful. 

Maybe it will help him understand that, when he’s overwhelmed with assignments, he can wake himself up by taking a brisk walk in a refreshing place. Most colonial doors were decorated with unique wreaths of fruit and flowers and shells and grains. The air was crisp. The moon was just about full. It was nice to walk with Oren again, something we loved to do in the evening for many years. And back in the hotel room, all the assignments got turned in on time.

Tuesday was an early morning for Oren, dropping him off for his 8 am class. That gave me just the right time for a morning jog back in Colonial Williamsburg, a work call and to check out of the hotel. We got subs for lunch and I took time to show Oren how to access a few other things online for health and job searches. And then I had to hit the road to head back to Baltimore. The drive was smooth. Along the way, I was able to catch up on the phone with another other friend from Poughkeepsie, Frances. And I got back to my parent’s house in time to make dinner and play a game of Scrabble.

At the theatre!

We spent Wednesday and Thursday with more celebratory events. On Wednesday evening, my parents took me out to the theatre at Baltimore Center Stage. It was a preview performance of Rogers and Hammerstein’s “Cinderella,” with all the original script and music. But the company is African-american and they gave a West African cultural flavor to the production, from the beat of the music, the dance and the amazing costumes. I don’t think I have every seen such spectacularly imaginative use of African fabrics, for beauty and also for a parody of the wicked stepmother and her daughters. It was deeply refreshing to enjoy more tastes of culture.


And on Thursday night we celebrated my dad’s actual 80th birthday with a home-cooked salmon meal at my brother’s house. We were going to go to a restaurant but realized that it is much more relaxed to be at Paul’s home, where we can actually hear each other. Bunny and Henry joined us, so I was able to have a bit of a farewell with them too. We enjoyed lots of fun conversation together at that smaller dinner and I’m so grateful for time with each of these dear family members.

In between, I fit in a visit with my sister-in-law Gwendolyn (it’s great to have one-on-one time with some folks). 

with Jenn Price
Our MCC Burundi friend Jennifer Price stopped in for lunch, and we were able to hear what she’s planning now that one humanitarian assignment in Ukraine has ended. And Friday, it was time to pack up and go to the airport midday.

I had one more treat in store on this trip: a longer 12-hour layover in Frankfurt gave me time to suggest a rendezvous with two friends from Burundi days. Incredibly, it all worked out, despite lots of snow and ice overnight in southern Germany. Tanja took the train from Stuttgart, and Naja flew in from Kopenhagen, meeting me in the airport train station where I had already bought us tickets to get into the center city. 

Naja, Rebecca and Tanja
Like clockwork, we all converged on this very cute breakfast place, Café Heimelig. It was breakfast cooked just like Omi! With homemade spreads and breads, cheese and lox. It had been 9 years since we saw each other and we had so much to share and catch up on. After breakfast we wandered through the Christmas Markets set up in all the squares, selling mulled wine, chocolates, cookies, candles, and all kinds of German treats. The little indoor market was fascinating with so many varieties of vegetables and antipasta and other delicacies. Yet the tourist areas of the city were very crowded, so we set ourselves the challenge of finding the smaller lanes. The idea of walking along the river sounded great in theory, but the wind was icy with flurries, and we soon took refuge in a coffee shop for round two of serious catching up. Later we made our way past a historic church and then on to the AirBnB that Tanja had booked to stay the night. We ended our full day of much cold walking at a Vietnamese restaurant with big bowls of hot Pho. 


Dinner together

And then Naja and Tanja accompanied me on the train to the airport and helped me get ready to board the plane. And here I am, on board, very, very tired, but also very happy about all the reconnecting I have been able to do in these past two weeks.

 

 

 






Bonus photos = too many!

Thanksgiving

Dulles departure

Cake in the wintery weather

With Naja and Tanja in Frankfurt

Intense scrabble

Quiet time at Charter Hall

Thanksgiving cooking

Thanksgiving eating

Charter Hall farm lane

Quiet breakfast by the Bay

Jean and Paul cooking

Oren in his new coat

Dave's birthday party

Sharing lunch with friends

Emmet, Miriam and Oren

Louise and Henry

Jean and John with Jean Sack and the moon

Papa Dave in the hot seat

Evening game playing

In Williamsburg with wreaths

The Wren building

The Fairy Godmother was spectacular!

Wintery trees in the woods

Sparkling cold stream

Gabriel, Dave and Henry

Walking in cold Frankfurt

Naja and Tanja warming up with hot soup


 

 

 

Thursday, November 30, 2023

A Season of Sports, Work Challenges, and Thanksgiving

I am squeezing one more entry into the month of November to catch up on some things that are happening here at the end. Actually, it is an unusual month in that for the past 10 days, David and I have been alone in the house. (not entirely alone since we have our cook here during working hours M-Th), but Rebecca is on a two-week hiatus to the US. The reasons are several, first, it was her Dad's 80th birthday, and second, it was the right interval of time to check on Oren at college. He is still trying to get used to independent life in college and he needed some support with various appointments, purchases, etc. 

As much as we miss her here, having someone go to the US during the year is a huge bonus, especially with Christmas coming up. She is sherpa-ing a number of items we ordered on Amazon that we can give as gifts. Even Christmas tree lights which just burned out here are extremely expensive to purchase. She will be back this weekend though, and despite some envy of seeing many photos from Charter Hall (our Chesapeake Bay retreat center where they had Thanksgiving and the Birthday), I am glad she could do this.

Life here, in the meantime, has been quite full, of both work and social activities, although it has been a relief not to be traveling a lot in the country this month. Truthfully, with the conflict in both Amhara and Oromia and frequent kidnappings, we hear about regularly, travel to see our projects has been limited to places we can fly. And since at least one parent should be home with David, there has not been any opportunity to leave town. 

As if to make up for the time I have in the office, the work there seems to have multiplied. This is the season when partners, with our help, are busy submitting full proposals for concepts that were approved for the next fiscal year. It is a time of work at the computer, to mill words into outcomes, outputs, and activities. 

At the same time, we must deal with any number of challenges that require our attention, many of them novel to any experience I have had before. Several weeks ago, for instance, our partner, Action Against Hunger, who receive about 500,000 cans of turkey meat from us per year, reported to us that a container truck with our cans en route from the Djibouti port jackknifed a few kilometers from the refugee camp for which it was bound. They sent me pictures of it lying on its side (driver unhurt). This was a container that belonged to us, and we needed to follow up on the incident, find out from the shipper about how the container was insured, and provide some funds for salvage of the 40,000 cans that were in the truck. This took several days of phone calls and emails to sort out. And that was just one small distraction for that week. 

We are also dealing with trying to redistribute funding from a partner who is working in conflict-ridden Amhara region to partners working in more stable areas. We have a large grant back-funded by the Govt. of Canada (GAC) which is a lot of money in a very time-bound project. We need to complete all activities (valued at nearly 2 million dollars) in two years. There is no accommodation for working in a conflict zone, so we are trying to find a way to be sure that smallholder farmers in Ethiopia can maximally benefit from this grant by getting another partner to provide some of the trainings it is offering in other, less conflict-affected regions. It is a process that has required a lot of negotiation to respect all stakeholders-- those who stand to gain, and those who stand to lose.

The other major work headache is dealing with a phenomenally complex bureaucracy to import a car. This is a project that began several months ago as we are in need of a new Landcruiser for field visits out of town where most of our project sites are well off paved roads. Getting a vehicle in Ethiopia is astoundingly expensive because import duty can be 350% of the list price. That means a very basic new 4X4 can cost up to $120,000. In the past 4 months the govt. lowered the import VAT to 150% of the cost, and we took advantage of the opportunity to make the purchase. 

We have an extensive protocol related to the procurement of something of this value. We require multiple proformas, and a competitive review process to decide where we will purchase the vehicle. An Ethiopian company operating out of the port of Djibouti had the best deal on a new Landcruiser and we went with them. (The fact that the vehicle was already in the port was a plus since it would take less time to arrive. The process after purchase requires dozens of letters and documents. We need supporting letters from at least 3 govt. ministries and other agencies, before paying duty at customs. 

We were at the end of the process, had collected all documents, and paid the VAT. All that remained last week was to pick up the approved customs clearance affidavit from customs so the vendor could bring it in the country. 

When our logistics officer went to collect this on Monday, he found to his shock, that all the personnel at customs had been replaced. There was an entirely new team and when he asked for the form they announced that a new law had just been past and vehicle importation by NGOs was not allowed anymore. He tried to explain that we had already finished the process and just needed the affidavit, but they refused. Since then, this week, he has been running around from office to office in customs to try to get special permission to finish our process since it started before the law was passed. I am trying to be optimistic that we will eventually succeed, but not easily, I am sure. The process as a whole has the Kafkaesque feeling of The Trial (for those of you who appreciate 20th-century German expressionist literature)

Conservation Ag. in our back yard
The remodeling of our bathroom is going somewhat better and it is starting to look OK. I admit that there is far less precision in the way things are done here than in the US. But the materials are more old school--all mortar, cinderblock, and tile. But it will be an improvement from the mold-covered wood that our wall has become. 

Fortunately, there have been a number of social events and school events that have been a needed counterbalance to the stresses of work. Among the regular weekly activities that feel life-giving are teaching Sunday School, hosting youth group monthly, and choir practice. In some of these we are getting ready for Christmas programs. Choir is particularly enjoyable. Rebecca and I are in the smaller chamber group as well that is doing some special music including some Pentatonix arrangements. 

This seems to be the season of sport at Bingham as well. David has been participating in volleyball in the past few months and for some reason, the JV team (under 16s) has been completely undefeated in all of their matches. About two weeks ago there was a huge tournament that involved every International school in Addis. The event lasted an entire day and took place at two schools. In the end, the JV boys went completely undefeated. I don't think any team won a single game against them. They are very well coached which was apparent by their consistent serves, bumps, sets, and positioning on offense. It is good to see David so involved. 

I am jumping ahead chronologically, but the other big sports event was field days. This is a two-day intramural event held over a weekend and pits the three Bingham 'houses' against each other. Since both David and Oren have been educated in the Cambridge system most of their lives, the idea of intra-school house competitions (a la Harry Potter) are quite familiar to them. In Tanzania, they were in Athens house at their school which was an athletic powerhouse. Here at Bingham, Taylor House is more of the Hufflepuff of schoolhouses. They put in a great effort, but have consistently come in last the past several years. Despite this, David did win second in triple jump and shot put, and 5th in discus, in his age group. 

There are a ton of events including all the classic track and field events, including some kids' events like sack, three-legged, and wheelbarrow races. Some of the Bingham students are superb athletes so events like the high-jump and long jump were really impressive. Field days tend to be huge family events with almost every family in the school showing up with parents and siblings all donning house apparel to show who they are rooting for. There are also tents of food and crafts for sale, so it is a huge community event. 

American Thanksgiving was not nearly as auspicious for us, but David and I did appreciate being invited to the home of another American family where about 5 families got together to celebrate. Mike, M. our host, is fortunate enough to have US commissary privileges, so he bought a turkey that was perfectly cooked. All the other fixin's were there as well. I made cranberry sauce with a recipe that used orange zest and reconstituted dried cranberries. It was actually delicious and added that necessary cranberry flavor to the turkey and stuffing. Later in the week, David decided to make a pumpkin pie from the remnants of the jack-o-lantern he carved for Halloween. It was actually quite good. 

Addis does cool down in October and November. Not as much as the US, but mornings, temperatures are in the very low 40s. It has been a bit melancholic to see photos on Whatsapp of Rebecca in familiar venues but with bare trees, and Oren with a new winter parka on. I don't think we have been in a winter in the US since 2016. 

There is probably much more to say, but that is a catch-up on what has been happening here for the past 2 weeks. David and I got out the Christmas tree and ornament suitcase. We started setting stuff up, but are saving most of the decorating for when Rebecca comes back on Sunday. 


Sunday, November 12, 2023

How do you feed a family of 10 on tired soil?

Shanka, Abebech and Tilahun (TDA staff)

We met Shanka Sadamu and Abebech Adaane outside their tidy home, decorated with blue and white painted designs and an inscription, declaring that “Jesus is Lord” (in English). We were surprised to learn that this young-looking couple together the couple have 10 children: 6 boys and 4 girls. The eldest boy serves as a pilot in the Ethiopian Air Force, the eldest girl is married locally, but the other 8 kids are still at home with them. Our group of visiting NGO staff, government workers, and researchers sat under the shade of a mango tree while we heard the story of how this couple got involved in Conservation Agriculture and Sustainable Intensification (CASI).

Shanka showing a plowed field

Two years ago Terrapeza Development Association (TDA) started this project by selecting lead farmers and taking them to visit other farmers who had been engaged in sustainable agricultural intensification for a while. The new lead farmers were amazed. The yields they saw under CASI were so much higher. They came home and started urging Shanka and others to try it.

For many years, Shanka would plow his fields seven times before planting. He worked hard. But he could hardly manage to feed his large family one meal a day. With every heavy rain, the topsoil of his well-plowed fields would be washed away. He got disappointing yields every time. The approach the lead farmers suggested seemed like senseless idleness. How could one not plow? All they suggested was to stop plowing and add mulch along with the other agronomic practices. It didn’t make sense! But finally, Shanka and Abebech decided to try it out.

They had just been through a personal turning point. In the past, Shanka had a habit of leaving home and wandering to the market, looking for casual work, failing and just hanging out with friends. His wife would panic when he was gone, but there was nothing lucrative or interesting going on on his farm. So why stay around? Then he got into a motorcycle accident. God spared his life and he decided that he needed to change his ways.

Praising God for an answer to prayer
Shanka’s involvement in conservation agriculture began with a spiritual experience, an answer to prayer, as the TDA staff person Admasu came and even knelt with them to pray as they started this experiment. They started with just a small plot, 30m x 50 m. But that one field produced an incredible yield. It was a total paradigm shift, “Like a miracle.” They could see the change in the quality of their land, and saw the mulch “fattening the soil”; it even changed color in one season as the moisture and biomass increased. Admasu came back and saw the test plot and encouraged them to keep going, to try more.

Their neighbors thought they must have gone mad, watching the couple carry more mulching leaves up from the nearby river. They began to work together as a whole family. “CASI is a magnet,” said Shanka. “No more wandering, going to market. Now I stay home to work on my farm. And other farmers come here.”

Shanka

There were challenges. Mulch is scarce and there is competition to use it to feed livestock. But TDA came up with an answer: green manure cover crops. These are usually legume crops that are planted to improve soil quality and/or control weeds, the way that mulch does. Ideally, cover crops may also provide human food, animal forage, or other benefits. They can be annual plants or vines like haricot beans and cowpeas. They might also be bushes or trees like pigeon peas. Shanka and Abebech got seeds to try out GMCCs in their fields and are now experimenting with at least 3 different options.

They no longer have any worries about mulch material. The cover crops provide plenty of cover to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and add biomass gradually into the soil. In addition, these plants fix nitrogen in the soil. They provide the right environment for bacteria and other micro-organisms that need to be in the soil mix, enabling a productive grain harvest. Even the structure of the soil is positively impacted.

Corn stalks lined up as mulch

The change in the lives of Shanka and Abebech is remarkable. They were barely able to eat once a day in the past. Now they comfortably enjoy three meals a day. They work together and are both invested. They have tried lots of different crops with cover crops and have gotten great results. For example, from a plot 40m x 80m, Shanka harvested about 500 kg of maize using conventional agricultural methods in the past. Using CASI, he harvested 2000 kg from the same size field. That’s a 400% increase in yield: astounding!

Rich soil around mulched ginger

In 2012, a disease impacted the major cash crop of the region: ginger. It became a losing prospect to try to grow ginger in the past 10 years when 100 kg of seed only produced 150 kg of marketable ginger. But Shanka tried ginger with mulching and he was able to get a harvest of 800 kg. CASI methods helped the ginger to be resilient against disease. He made a profit of about $420 US (a large sum for an Ethiopian farmer) and bought an ox.

Different cover crops side by side

We took a tour of his fields and saw so many interesting innovations in place. He had just finished harvesting both maize and haricot beans from one field. The cut stalks of maize were lined up neatly, covering the entire field like a blanket of protection. The haricot beans were still drying and hadn’t yet been threshed but he was confident he would make a lot of money on that harvest. He plans to use the field next season for planting Taro, a local root crop that requires quite fertile soil. Another field was planted with cowpeas, a legume crop that was totally new to the community. But since there is a good market for it as a cash crop, people are planting it and enjoying the mulching and nitrogen-fixing benefits too. Shrubby pigeon peas lined the fields and paths, serving as a source of animal forage. Coffee trees full of cherries and banana groves shaded other fields where Taro was actively growing, demonstrating how various natural resources can be maintained together. Other fields were dedicated to growing animal fodder exclusively, to provide for the new ox.  Shanka testified that even if the government told him that conservation agriculture was illegal, he would risk jail, even death, to keep doing it.

Banana with pigeon pea bushes on the right
Shanka and Abebech are trying everything, mulching everything, and getting great results. Other farmers are learning from them. They estimate that about 325 other farmers have started adopting these CASI practices, and the government extension officer Habakok Kikamo verified that this is true. In fact, for his job, he often has to travel between different communities. He loves to come to visit Shanka because he knows the family always has some food to spare for him.

Deresse Dana, 29, another
farmer trying CASI

Shanka and Abebech were just one family engaged in conservation agriculture in Adila Kebele, part of the Bolosso Bombe Woreda in the Wolayita Zone of the South Ethiopia Regional State. Terrapeza Development Association is part of a network of partners of the Canadian Food Grains Bank, and this Ethiopian network including several MCC partners has been doing a tremendous job of scaling up CASI all around the country. TDA is not a direct MCC partner, but is a sister organization, and hosted a national summit on green manure cover crops this past week. Gender balance is often a problem at these conferences of professional plant scientists, and for that reason, Paul said it was a good idea if I attended this event instead of him. I’m glad he suggested it! There were a few women farmers who attended the first day of the meeting, but I was one of only two women professional attendees out of 90 total.

MCC is a major supporter of this CFGB network, and so we were able to invite staff from four different partners to come and learn more and share experiences. 


Abebech, Shanka, and two of their kids
We were joined by many well-known researchers in the field.  It was quite a festive atmosphere as we met up with colleagues at the airport to fly down to Arba Minch. (Initially, we had intended to drive down south, but the security situation has gotten even worse these days with a kidnapping not far out of Addis). So, we flew down and then were driven 2 hours onwards to Wolayta Sodo through beautiful, lush countryside, dotted with lakes and fruit trees.

On Tuesday, we got an overview of the story of conservation agriculture in Ethiopia, as implemented by the CFGB network. A major science leader, Dr. Kindie, outlined the results of action research performed on CASI, trying to analyze which combination of agricultural practices produces the best results – not surprisingly, it all depends on the local context. The major practices of Conservation agriculture have proven very effective: low/zero tillage, mulching, and crop rotation. But two key problems have emerged.

Farmer demonstrating Taro

  • 1.      There is a lack of mulching material
  • 2.      Inorganic fertilizer is scarce and expensive

Many were surprised to hear that Dr. Kindie advocated for a half-half mix of fertilizer: organic (providing the necessary carbon biomass) and inorganic (providing essential minerals not found in most compost).

After a wonderful lunch provided by TDA, Neil Miller, our friend and ag expert, followed up with the answer to both those constraints to CASI: Green manure cover crops. We were able to meet with farmers who exhibited some marvelous produce grown with mulching. We looked at the seed options for cover crops. We smelled herbs and saw the pride of these farmers in what they could grow.

On Wednesday, we went to the field to different woredas in smaller groups to visit farmers like Shanka and Abebech. In fact, our group visited two more farmers and then ended up in the home compound of Gash Alemayehu Haliso. 

Alemayehu in a field of cowpeas
His large family had prepared tables spread out under the shade of some very old mango and hardwood trees. They carried out to us enormous plates of local delicacies, root crops boiled and nicely prepared. We sampled white and purple yams, white sweet potatoes, boiled Taro and mashed Taro, and a heap of Bula, a sort of cheesy-tasting, tapioca-textured culinary mystery prepared from false banana. All of this was flavored by dipping pieces into very buttery pots of hot “data”—garlic, chili, and salt. We finished off the meal with bananas and coffee with butter (or without butter in my case – I wanted to sleep that night!).
data and a platter of roots and bula

Thursday involved a debrief of our various field visits and some other thoughtful presentations to complement what we had already seen. One woman gender officer shared the importance of involving women from the beginning of a project, consulting them about their needs and their schedule, and making sure they could access training, agricultural inputs, and the benefits of marketing their products. She also maintained that CASI really benefits women, reducing their workload, giving them more nutritious crops to feed their families, and allowing for more time for tasks of caring for children.

Habakok Kikamo, extension worker (blue) 

It was very interesting to hear such support from the government delegation. Ten years ago, when this approach started, the Ministry of Agriculture was completely at odds with CASI and had no wish to support it. Agricultural policy at that time centered on pushing the use of inorganic fertilizer; conservation agriculture pushed just the opposite – GMCC’s. Now that fertilizer is very expensive or unavailable in Ethiopia, green manure cover crops look like a smart idea to everyone. Still, it seems best to use a combination of both at this point for the best yields.

Jakob (DF), Dr. Kindie (CYMMET), Frew, 
myself and Mesfin on an evening walk

Along with learning a lot from more technical presentations and the field visit day, I really enjoyed being in the company of this group of agricultural experts. A network of development organizations has been working together consistently to promote Conservation Agriculture since 2015. They have developed strong collaboration – even warm friendship and trust – over these years. And I am sure that the quality of their dedication, working from the heart for the glory of God, really makes a difference in how they are able to be so effective. I really enjoyed having time for evening walks with some very high-powered scientists, and dinner discussion of the details of their field research.

Rebecca and Mesfin at the end of the conference

half a new wall

On Friday morning, we woke up early and made the journey back to Addis by bus and then by plane. Within hours, I was back into normal life, dealing with household issues and heading off to choir practice.

One amazing development I came home to was the impressive progress in the renovation of our hall bathroom. We picked a contractor who was ready to really get moving on the project. Day 1, Tuesday, he carefully removed the bathtub, saving the tile (construction materials cost about twice as much as it should because of the currency distortion). 

full walls

On Day 2, he completely removed the wall between the bath and “Oren’s” bedroom, discovering that there was an additional hallway wall that was rotted and needed to be replaced. On Day 3, he built half the new wall of cinder blocks, and on Friday we watched him complete that new wall, along with the wall to enclose a shower box. Over the weekend, we had the task of “watering the walls” twice a day (in Amharic it sounds like giving the walls something to drink! Apparently that cures the cement somehow). It will be a big improvement to our guest bath facilities to have a shower option for them.

Work remained very busy for Paul and our other staff. There’s continued follow-up on our new vehicle purchase, but we won’t fully celebrate it until the car is parked in our compound. We’ve been working to complete our recruiting process for three Ethiopian young adult volunteers to serve with other international MCC programs. An intensive process of interviews and English tests absorbed the one week I was in the office between Djibouti and Sodo. We had a major team meeting that past Monday to review plans for completing our housekeeper’s condo. We were able to raise the needed funds, and Yeshi went with her contractor friend from church (donating his time) to go and buy all the necessary materials. Meanwhile, Paul has been working to develop contingency plans around the projects currently to be run in Amhara. Things continue to be very difficult in the Gojjam area, with a huge offensive from the federal military that started last weekend. There is little to no reporting on this conflict in local or international news. But we know that thousands have died and tens of thousands have been displaced. Farmers are not planting or harvesting, but bearing arms. The hunger crisis that resulted from the Tigray conflict two years ago remains a huge problem in northern Amhara.

Youth group spike ball and cross net

In other personal news, we hosted a fun youth group gathering last weekend. And then I had to preach the next morning. It was definitely a case of praying for sufficient grace to prepare and lead all the extra things after a busy work week, but grace was sufficient. And this weekend, David’s volleyball team played in an inter-school tournament. They have had some great coaching, quickly learning and growing in key skills. They also demonstrated such good attitudes and sportsmanship, caring for each other and not getting mad when kids made mistakes. And, as a good team, they actually won every single game they played yesterday, right up to winning the championship. We are really glad for David that he has enjoyed being part of a healthy, team-building athletic endeavor.

 Bonus photos:






 

More bonus photos:


 

Neil Miller and I on a walk

Mesfin and Neil, conference organizers

Honoring Neil for 10 long years of hard work,
Tirelessly thinking of how to support smallholder farmers