Paul and Rebecca Mosley in Ethiopia: September 2023

Sunday, September 24, 2023

Getting Back into Routines on Shifting Sands

Staff Lunch

It is a good time for a catch-up on a Sunday afternoon. We are committed to updating twice per month and we really have not had a chance to post news about our first month back in Addis as a family (less Oren of course who is in College).

Many foreigners, who have the option, leave Addis in the summer because of the amount of rain we have here from June until the beginning of October. That means that the month of September is a continuation of the rainy season and most of the activities we do are organized indoors. At school, for instance, it is volleyball season and David is on the JV (under 16) team and has been going to practices at 6:45 a.m. Tuesdays and after-school Fridays. They have already played a number of matches against a rival school and are currently undefeated. I have had the chance to attend several of the games and it is great to see him play.

Minecraft get together

I am happy to say he has developed a nice cadre of friends who live in the neighborhood. There are two families in particular who live within walking distance, the Kempens and the Polks who have boys close to David's age. Rebecca and I also sing in the choir that Lori Kempen directs and the Polks participate as well. This means there are many connections and we have even gotten together for a sing-along just for fun last week.

Indoor spike ball -- pretty risky for the breakables!

September is a season full of national holidays so we have also had a number of days when David has had friends over all day for outdoor activities like spike ball (sometimes played indoors during rain) basketball, board games like Settlers (with one or more expansions) and of course Minecraft, and Super Mario Cart on the Nintendo switch. It is an answer to prayer to see David developing an active social life.

Clothespin hairstyles

Church life is full as well (sometimes too full?). I teach Sunday school to 4th -8th graders most weeks. I have done it several years so they know me well. Rebecca has been preaching and leading music when needed (she is currently the only member of our pastoral team in town). This is an all-volunteer church so 'the harvest is great, but the workers are few' as the Bible verse goes. We continue to meet in our small group as well, although trying to find a week when everyone is in town is a challenge since most of us travel at least 25% of the time for our jobs.

We have also started the youth group again and Rebecca and I hosted the kick-off at our house. It was well attended with about 30 kids, who really enjoyed our backyard crossnet game (a brief reprieve from rain that afternoon). We also had a fun icebreaker game where kids were asked some questions that they answered on slips of paper, and then others had to guess who was the author of each answer. It was a good way to get them to know each other better. The adults met together at the end and it looks like we have a number of parents that are willing to help.

Other aspects of life around the compound remain interesting. We were able to harvest the sweet corn we started growing before home leave. The ears were not as big as the ones in Maryland because of the excessive rainfall in this season, but it was very good. We also harvested about 40 apples that grew on our apple trees in the back of the house, and we re-stripped the leaves off the trees to prepare for another growing season.

Our chickens were another story. We have kept up the MCC tradition of raising chickens and keep about 50 which provide us, our staff, and other friends 25--30 eggs per day. They were 2 years old this year and were starting to die off. By the time I got back in August, we had about 15 and now we are down to six layers. (The Ethiopian New Years celebration in September was a great opportunity for some of our staff to buy the old ones for Doro wot.) About 2 weeks ago, we bought a new batch of 65 'layer' chicks. They should start laying in about 3 months. Hopefully, the 6 we have left can give us 2-4 eggs a day until then.

youth group parents meeting

We are no experts in poultry farming, but fortunately, our guard staff know quite a bit. We bought the new chicks from a reputable dealer and had a guy over to 'debeak' them last week. (This is just burning the sharp tip off of the beak so that they do not peck each other too much.)

There have also been a number of improvements around the compound including painting the office block and putting fresh concrete on parts of the sidewalk around the house that was starting to crack. With a heavy rainy season there needs to be regular concrete repair.

Yeshi serving coffee

I have not really come around to work up to now, and here is where it has been a bit more disheartening, or at least challenging. The biggest challenge has been the recent disability of our cook Yeshi. We have had Yeshi with us since we took the position and besides keeping the house and office clean, she prepares lunch on the compound for our office staff and us every day. This is a huge time saver as no one has to leave the compound to get lunch. It is also a good time of bonding for our team. We usually have all manner of cultural conversations during tea time and lunch hour, where we also have the chance to improve our Amharic.

Shortly before David and I returned, Yeshi slipped on the pavement behind our house, in the rain, and injured her knee. She did not think it was that serious at first as the doctor gave her a steroid injection. but within 2 weeks she was almost completely unable to walk. This has made returning to work impossible, and Rebecca took responsibility for making sure she could see a good orthopedist here and get a good diagnosis. Recently she had an MRI and the doctor found she has serious bone and cartilege damage to her knee. He will advise as to whether surgery is necessary but did say he could perform it with a good result.

Youth group hairstyles

It is hard to get Yeshi to fully understand the benefit of surgery. She would prefer traditional massage and prayer, and it is a culturally sensitive issue to assert our preference that she receive a Western medical treatment. And the fact is that MCC will only cover these kinds of interventions and not traditional ones. But honestly, we are concerned that a non-Western approach is really likely to do more harm than good, since it is not likely the ligaments or bone will grow back together on their own, and we don't want her disabled for life.

Her medical leave makes our life more difficult because we rely heavily on her role to assist us with cleaning, shopping at the market, preparing lunches, etc. We have had some temporary people come in, but will probably need to find someone to cover for Yeshi for a couple of months.

A serious game of Settlers

We are in the season of developing new concept papers and have been busy reviewing new project ideas, or renewing old ones. Much of the work is done on the computer by email, between our project staff, partners, and our regional supervisors, but sometimes we are out of the office. Rebecca and I both have made visits to partners to negotiate new budgets for projects. I also was able to travel out of town to a town in Oromia called Batu(Ziway), to see a maternal and child health project that is up for renewal. It was a really good visit. I met with the director of our partnership as well as regional officials at the Ministry of Health, the Department of Women's Affairs, and the Ministry of Education. It was great to hear how appreciated this project has been in Batu and support we had from the local govt. ministries. We talked about priorities for the next phase. The overwhelming response was nutrition. There has been a spike in childhood severe as well as moderate acute malnutrition, and there needs to be more education for mothers on dietary diversity, complementary feeding, as well as some food provision and referral to feeding centers for the severely malnourished. Our project focuses on peer-based care groups of pregnant and lactating women who can be trained and can support each other. It was good to get such clear direction for the next phase of the project.

The sad reality is that rising malnutrition reflects how bad the economy is here, Inflation has been over 30% for nearly 2 years. On imports, inflation is even higher. There is also a huge distortion of the currency exchange rate which makes our dollars almost useless to reduce the inflation rate in our projects. Everyone is in need of more money and we are getting requests from all partners and even our staff for inflation adjustments to allow them to even maintain the current level of project activities. We are sadly not able to increase in most cases because costs have made many of the activities prohibitive. (The cost of building a single well has tripled in the past 2 years, for instance, because it has imported parts.)

Tree planting with the MKC president

We are also in another national conflict. Less than 2 years ago, there was a revolt in Tigray that almost brought the Tigrayan militia to Addis to overthrow the govt. Since the signing of a peace treaty between the federal government and Tigray, a huge conflict has arisen between neighboring Amhara and the federal government. This is the region where most of our food security projects are located. All internet and phone contact has been cut off, roads are blocked, airports are closed, so we cannot even communicate with our partners there. There is virtually no coverage of this in the international (or national) news. It is like it is not happening, but it is having a huge impact on our work, and we have heard that many people are being killed in fighting.

It is a hard time to be working here. We are hoping that when Parliament comes back in session, there may be some work at a peace accord. There is no military solution to a war between federal forces and Amhara militia.

Rebecca and I did have one other out-of-town trip together to attend the Meserete Kriston Church Annual Meeting (that is the Ethiopian Mennonite Church). We go as a sign of solidarity. It was a long day of driving and listening to speeches in Amharic. We managed to sneak in a swim on the way back home at the end of it, which helped.

Update on Bereket:

I was touched and stunned at the response I got from the story of Bereket (2 entries ago linked here ) and our journey to get him an opportunity in the US only to be stymied by being denied a US visa. We have not given up, and we did get a new appointment for him. Sadly it will not be until June of 2024-- the embassy will not grant an expedited visa since he was denied once. That means without a miracle he will not be able to defer for only a semester. It will be a full year before he can attend in the US, and only then if he is approved for a visa. At least one member of Congress has expressed interest in the case, but so far nothing has changed. Please keep this in prayer. I have tried to have a conversation with anyone at the embassy, but they have a very strong firewall of form responses to my emails that makes talking to a human about this nearly impossible.

Monday, September 4, 2023

Off to college!

Oren and I in his new dorm room
before all the unpacking

This month of August has been tremendously full for both Paul and me. I ended up staying two and a half weeks longer in the US this year, an unheard-of luxury. My goals centered around:

Getting Oren through his initial surgery recuperation and prepared to live without us

Getting Oren moved into his new life as a college student

Preparing myself in every other way to leave the continent and resume normal life, especially trying to do a few things to help my parents

All four grandparents

There were doctor’s visits: Right after Paul and David got on the plane, Oren and I went back to see his surgeon, and were very relieved to hear that it was good for Oren to start weight bearing again. He had taken some steps the week before in PT – maybe a few too many steps? – and had been using his right leg more over the weekend. But then we began to fear that it had been too much. There was some pain – but apparently, that’s normal and the only way to strengthen the healing bone is to use the leg in moderation. We are really thankful that all the outer signs point to a good procedure and we keep praying for the long-term outcome. He had about five sessions of physical therapy in Maryland, enough to get him walking around with just one crutch for support by the time we left for Virginia. (Update Sept 4: he’s been walking all over campus and can now remove the boot in his dorm)

There were the practical things we had to buy and prepare for his independent life. We made a run to IKEA, looking for a shelf, a rug, duvet covers, desk organizers, and other needed things for his dorm room. It was fairly tiring, and so we had a very nice break in the Ikea restaurant halfway. (I loved that they use ceramic dishes and offer free refills!)

Playing cards with Grampa Henry

It was special to have that time with Oren. We also had to do quite a lot of work together to get his stuff in order – what to store and what to take to college. He had basically carried back all his earthly possessions from Ethiopia. It was not a very fun task for either of us, but we squeezed it in, and now Oren is adding four boxes to the tally of things stored in my parent’s basement.

We enjoyed some great last visits with the relatives. One evening, Oren and I had a very nice time visiting Bunny and Henry for dinner. We got to go upstairs afterward and play one of the games (versions of THE Game) that Paul’s brother Jonathan had sent to us. It’s always good to be with Bunny and Henry and to share conversation and fun. It was such a sweet time when we got to stay with them for a week, earlier in Oren’s recovery.

Oren talking with Grammy Bunny

We had a few other times to hang out with my brother’s family – that was especially great for Oren to be with his cousins and the next-door neighbors who were together with him in youth group. Paul and Gwendolyn are also very supportive and I’m so thankful they will be there to counsel Oren as time goes on. On Saturday, Oren’s cousin Gabe even came to get him out in Fallston and take him to hang out with them there. That was super helpful for me since I needed some time to prepare a sermon to preach at our home church. And sermon prep is pretty time-consuming for me, requiring a few walks in the woods.

Birthday lunch at Ikaros w NZ visitors (left)

In the midst of all that, my mom had 2 young adult visitors from New Zealand come through. They were on their way to a semester abroad in Vancouver, BC, and were able to visit Baltimore city, Washington, DC, Amish country and lots of sites in between. Oren had some interesting conversations with the young ladies, but didn’t join them in their trips – it was too much walking.

I was really glad to be at our church on that Sunday, August 20^th, glad to preach, glad to share some of the love of Jesus with my home church, as well as the love of diving deeply into the Bible. After church, we celebrated my mom’s birthday at our favorite Baltimore Greek Restaurant, Ikaros. My brother’s family joined us, along with the NZ visitors. The food was incredible as always, but we wondered again – why do we order anything besides appetizers? We could stop there and be totally happy.

Jean's birthday owl

We finished all the packing for college on Monday and then went to celebrate my mom’s actual birthday dinner with Bunny and Henry in their dining room. I’m so glad Oren has loving grandparents here in town who will also be ready to welcome him and make him feel special when he comes home.

Van loaded for Williamsburg

And then we reached stage 2: actually leaving Baltimore and heading down to Williamsburg. Frankly, it took a long time to be totally ready to leave, but we finally hit the road at 11. Oren played us some good music while we drove, along with some interesting YouTube videos giving helpful advice to people who would like to rule the world: how to secure the support of keys to power, manage the treasury, and establish a dynasty. Pretty insightful stuff actually! It was a good drive together, and I was so glad I drew the short straw to have this time with Oren.

We arrived in the late afternoon and I decided that I really needed a good long walk after the drive while Oren rested for a bit. Then we did some driving around Williamsburg to help him begin to get acquainted with the lay of the land. I graduated from William and Mary 28 years ago, and a lot has changed! Not just in the town, but also on campus. I began to realize that I needed Google Maps to get almost anywhere in the beginning! We had a simple dinner in our room and picked off a couple more episodes of “Breaking Bad” – this has been Oren’s top choice of how he wanted to spend time with me this summer (and out of love for him, I have obliged). But we couldn’t quite get to the end of season 4. We’ll have to wait til next time…

The Christopher Wren Building -- the oldest
academic building still in use in the USA
Seen with the sun behind the pennant for 1693

Wednesday was a serious local orientation day. I got up earlier and took a fantastic run around colonial Williamsburg. That part of town, at least, hasn’t changed much – I guess that’s the point!! It was lovely to be in familiar territory, pass by Bruton Parish, Christiana Campbell’s, The Governor’s palace, the Mill, and all the other spots I enjoyed – this was the place I first learned to try jogging. After breakfast, Oren and I went to the train station to park the car and then tried to get around town with public transportation. Sadly, the schedules were off, so instead, it ended up being lesson one in Uber. Still a necessary module in the curriculum of independent life! We got to the physical therapy center where I’d booked Oren’s next sessions to fill out paperwork in advance. Unfortunately, they told us that the doctor was suddenly unavailable for the foreseeable future.

Lessons in public transportation
you need a lot of apps for that

So we had to hunt down another PT place and got an appointment for the following week. It turned out to be a (long) walk away. We did more paperwork and then tried again to get the bus – and failed for various reasons. Oren was pretty tired after that much walking, so we needed a rest in the room for a while. Then we went out to try again and this time we succeeded in catching the bus near the college and riding along on the entire route. I think it was still confusing to Oren to know where he should get off, though. We ended our day with a really nice dinner at Barrett’s, a fancy seafood restaurant near Colonial Williamsburg. I had planned on pizza (a bit cheaper), but their kitchen was overwhelmed by new student customers. And so we had an incredibly memorable and delicious final supper together.

Cambridge house welcome lunch

On Thursday, move-in day, Oren was an absolute star. We started out at the Cambridge House. It’s a Christian study center that several friends told me about earlier, as a resource for Oren. Those gracious folks were having a new student/family welcome lunch, and so we were able to go and introduce Oren to quite a few fellow students, as well as many people involved in different campus ministries. It was fun for me to talk with some of the staff, and let Oren interact with others his age.

And then we were off to get in line for move-in. The college executes a well-orchestrated process, getting through different stages of check-in, getting a key, an ID card, and other info.

In the Move-In line

Next, we had to pull around to the back of his dorm and unload the whole car. I was anticipating that I would need to do all the lifting and carrying since Oren was still using the crutch to walk. But I was pleasantly surprised when he turned out to be fully ready to lift and haul things. Then I had to go and re-park the car. I came back to find him already moving stuff up a bunch of stairs and into his room. I was so thankful for that! It took us a while to look around and arrange things and get everything hauled up to his room.

Building "billy"

Next, we needed to build the IKEA shelf we had bought That turned out to be a process of trial and error, but we managed it, after taking out the middle shelf three times, making two different mistakes. We didn’t even get mad at each other, which is amazing, given the potential amount of anxiety we were dealing with, trying to get everything settled while we had the room alone.

Oren and room mate James

We had almost gotten it finished when Oren’s roommate James showed up with his family. It was very fun to get to know them a little bit. James’ dad is also a W&M alum, about 12 years older than me. His mom is from Cuba, so he has some Spanish as well. He had been living in Connecticut, but his parents decided that it would be better to move to Virginia to seek lower tuition in the following three years. He begrudgingly allowed that this was a good idea, but that they couldn’t live too close. Well, last month they ended up moving to Williamsburg! James still seemed kind of grumpy about it. But his parents seemed quite nice to me. We did some reshuffling of furniture together with them, and hopefully, everyone will be happy with how it ended up. Setting up the room took a really long time. Then I needed to carry everything that Oren decided he didn’t really need back out to the car. By then, Oren’s RA showed up and gathered the guys and they were already starting the get-to-know-you part of orientation. I tried to hustle to finish up, and then gave Oren a quick hug and left.

President Rowe addressing parents

I ended my evening at Lake Matoaka, in the spacious new amphitheater they’ve built there. It was nice to just sit and watch the sunset over the water and have some time to be still for a bit. The college held a welcome session for families at dusk. It was completely packed with parents and families of about 1,000 new undergrads. We were all encouraged and consoled. After the session, I took another half hour to just sit and reflect in the darkness as other people chatted and string music played on the PA system. It was weird to be so solitary. And yet there was nothing or no one to dilute this moment – Oren was officially out from under our roof. I guess I’m glad I was alone to contemplate that.

Leaving Oren at Griffen E

I had a lot to do the next morning – there were information sessions for parents on topics from IT to registrar to campus jobs. Next, I went to a welcome event for international students and families. And then on to several sessions about practical issues – student health and the bookstore. Finally I ran to get another extension cord and found Oren back at his dorm. He did not want to belabor the goodbyes. So, that was it.

I tried to think of reasons to extend my time in Williamsburg. I was very curious about the new student wellness center, so I went there and called Paul briefly. I admired the meditation alcoves and massage rooms. I wandered down to Crim Dell and gazed at the bridge. I guess I could have kept wandering, but there was no particular reason. It’s not my college anymore – I done what I came to do. So, I left.

In fact, I needed to get back up to Northern Virginia before rush hour. I’d made an appointment to finally, finally catch up with Barbara, a dear college friend whom I haven’t seen in many years in person. She has struggled with chronic health problems, and it’s been difficult for me to know how to get over to see her with my whole family in tow.

Caption contest, anyone?

But finally, I had the perfect opportunity to see her with just myself. I was so grateful for the 3 or so hours we got to spend together, hearing a lot more detail of what has been happening for her. We visited her delightful animal kids, including fish, geckos and a tortoise. I shared many of the questions and struggles we have with serving in Ethiopia, as well as the rewards. It was a wonderful time, and I’m just sad that I completely forgot to take a photo!!

I left just as heavy rain was hitting the area. Traffic was bad and I was tired. It was not at all a fun drive back!! I tried to make it more enjoyable by listening to Fahrenheit 451, a classic I somehow missed earlier in life. What a poetic and dark book, with so much insight into our present psychic reality. I was very glad to finally get home and get to bed.

Garage work in the heat

Phase three began on Saturday. I had a goal of trying to help my parents with some major decluttering and disposal tasks. My dad and I worked most of the day on their garage, going through shelves and boxes that hadn’t been sorted in years. It had reached a critical point because my mom has also been doing a tremendous amount of volunteer work, helping to resettle refugees. She began with the wave of Afghan refugees that came two years ago after the Taliban took over Kabul.

Workbench sorted

She has a gift and an interest in finding free stuff that could be useful, and so she’s figured out how to get pots and pans, dishes and towels, and all the other bits and pieces needed to run a household. The trouble is that she collects things in advance and then has to wait for an opportunity to use those things to set up an apartment for a new family. And the only storage space was the garage. We were able to get rid of a lot of junk from the garage and then organize the good stuff for refugees more efficiently. We did more work on the basement later in the week, opening and sorting boxes of things that hadn’t been dealt with since my parents moved back from Bangladesh 15 years ago. All that culminated in a dump run, with the assistance of my friend Chris. Many thanks to Chris for decoding all the special areas for disposal of different kinds of specific trash.
To the dump, to the dump,
to the dump, dump, dump

I also really needed to do some work to organize our own junk that we are storing in Fallston – and that organizational task took up more time than I wanted, up until 1:30 this morning… Anyway, that’s our own fault.

I also needed to go see my doctors and spent a fair bit of time on that Monday and Tuesday. On the other hand, I also had outings to enjoy beauty on those days. ON Monday afternoon, I took a long walk at Oregon Ridge Park, a trail that was especially good for contemplation. On Tuesday morning, I joined my mom and our long-time family friend Louise, on an excursion at Ladew Topiary Gardens. It's always lovely there! And there were a few good ways to connect with Oren and make sure he was on track with starting school and showing up as he needed to. I’m glad to report he had three days of class (chemistry and physics), he’s managing an add/drop process for his freshman writing course, really loved an upper-level class Education, and also scheduled and got himself to PT without me even knowing.

We had doro wot early! with
Melkamu and Genet

I also had some very lovely moments of sharing with friends in the last week. I was able to call a few dear people on the phone and catch up more extensively. But there wasn’t enough margin to call everyone I was thinking of. I had two very special times with Paul’s parents in the last week. I really enjoyed spending more time with Chris and Lisa and talking about the mission experience and healing prayer. My parents joined me as we shared an amazing Ethiopian feast with Genet and Melkamu, our friends and tenants. I had such a sweet time at a church picnic on Sunday in the arboretum, sharing deep conversation with a couple I appreciate greatly. On one afternoon, my mom helped me with a bunch of errands and then we went for water therapy in a friend’s pool. That was very helpful because I have been dealing with a lot of anxiety at the thought of going back to Addis (and leaving Oren). I had a fun last dinner with Paul, Gwendolyn and Gabe – I really enjoy spending time with them.

And my last full day in Baltimore was extraordinarily gorgeous. It was actually cold in the morning, very clear and bright. One could feel the season changing. I allowed myself one final run in the forest in the morning. It was heart-rending to think that I won’t be back there for 10 months or so – at least not when it’s green. I really tried to be present every moment, which wasn’t easy with many details attacking me like flaming darts. And then I met my friend Ashley in another forest, Cromwell Valley. I was thankful for the time to walk and share with her, since she has just started in the associate pastor position at my home church, a position I held at the time we first met in 2015. I was also super thankful to spend at least part of the day forest bathing, not looking at my clock, not trying to accomplish anything. It was a trail I know and love, and I needed to say goodbye to the place too.

With Ashley at Cromwell Valley

That was my fourth unspoken goal – to make sure I was ready to face going back to the front lines in Addis. I do struggle a lot with the physical location of our assignment, the bare ugliness and commotion, and the lack of solitude and beauty. I was very moved by Pastor Arthur’s sermon the Sunday before I left. He preached on the creation and God the gardener, observing that God created the trees to be “pleasing to the eye and good for food.” Beauty was God’s intention, as well as productivity. As those made in God’s image, God desires for us to enjoy beauty. I need to stop feeling guilty for wanting to enjoy a green space – I was created to want that. But Arthur pointed out a linked injustice when it comes to the destruction of creation. It’s the poor who suffer most when creation suffers – they are the hardest hit, practically. They starve with climate change and soil erosion. They thirst in drought. Poverty forces them into tiny sheds in huge cities like Addis. And they have neither money nor leisure nor a place to enjoy the beauty of their heritage in creation. It is good to have eyes to see this spiritual, emotional injustice.

a new bench at the site of a fallen tree

And on the flip side, in Maryland, we have an extravagant wealth of forests and trails. It was the gold mine I tapped while I lived in Baltimore and needed a place for Sabbath during ministry. Some places I walked dozens of times. Now, I visit these trails like I visit old friends: they hold a piece of me in memory. I am so scattered – across times and communities and places. I need help to hold together. The prayers I prayed, the people I held dear as I walked, walking again, I come full circle. The people are precious dust. We are all slipping away. The trail is also dust, but stable. I remember praying for Barbara many times when I come to a certain curve in the path. Every stream crossing is water from the side of Christ, washing me, clearing away what isn’t necessary, bringing my scattered pieces to stability. Calling me to be here and now. Keeping my mind bound to this place, bound to my Jesus, to those many, many times I recognized Him as I walked: all those times I knew for sure, “this far He has brought me.”

So I’m thankful for each one of those walks, and for each one of the people I have had time with, each precious place and person that connects me to wholeness. As usual, this is written on the plane, in the liminal space. When I publish, inshallah, I will have my feet solidly planted in Addis Ababa again.

Bonus photos: